PLANT CARE & CHARACTERISTICS

Light Requirements: Full Sun. Requires at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal fruit production and a strong canopy.

• Sun Protection: Young avocado trees have thin green bark that is prone to sunscald. It is a common practice to paint the trunk of young trees with a 50/50 mixture of white interior latex paint and water to protect them from the harsh afternoon sun until the canopy provides enough natural shade.

Water Requirements: Moderate to High. Needs consistent moisture, especially during the flowering and fruit-set stages. Young trees require deep watering 2–3 times a week during hot periods.

Drought Resistance: Low to Moderate. Once established, it can tolerate short dry spells, but prolonged drought will cause fruit drop and leaf scorch. It is not a xeric plant.

Soil Type: Loose and Well-Draining. Prefers sandy or loamy soils with a slightly acidic to neutral pH. It is highly sensitive to "wet feet" and heavy clay that retains water.

• The Mounding Method: If you have soil that doesn't drain perfectly, plant the 'Bacon' avocado on a slight mound or "hill" (about 1–2 feet high). This ensures the sensitive root crown stays above the water line during heavy rains.
• Mulching: Because avocado roots are very shallow, they benefit immensely from a thick layer (4–6 inches) of coarse wood mulch. This regulates soil temperature and keeps the roots from drying out in the sun.

Deer Resistance: Low. Deer will readily browse the tender new foliage and young shoots, though they tend to ignore the thicker, mature leathery leaves.

Pest/Disease Resistance: Moderate. Susceptible to Phytophthora (Root Rot) if soil drainage is poor. It shows good resistance to many common avocado pests but can be affected by mites or thrips in dry conditions.

Pollination: Type B Flowing. Flowers open as female in the afternoon and male the following morning. While it can self-pollinate, yield is significantly higher if planted near a Type A variety ('Avocado Hass', 'Reed', or 'Pinkerton') for cross-pollination.

Harvest: Typically late fall through winter (November to March). Unlike most fruit, avocados do not ripen on the tree; they must be picked once they reach full size to begin the softening process.

YIELD

STORAGE/SHELF LIFE

Critical Storage & Handling Rules

1. The "Feel" Test (Not the "Look" Test): Unlike the Hass, which turns black when ready, the Bacon remains green when ripe. To check for ripeness, apply very gentle pressure near the stem end. If it yields slightly to the touch, it is ready. Do not wait for a color change, or the fruit will over-ripen and rot on your counter.

2. Thin-Skin Vulnerability: The skin of a Bacon avocado is very thin and brittle. It does not protect the flesh from bruising as well as the pebbly Hass skin. Avoid stacking them on top of each other in a bowl, as the weight of the top fruit can bruise the ones underneath, leading to grey or black spots in the flesh.

3. Managing Oxidation: Because Bacon avocados have a slightly higher water content and lower oil content than Hass, they tend to oxidize (turn brown) faster once cut.

• If you only use half, leave the pit in the remaining half.
• Cover the surface with a thin layer of olive oil or lemon juice and wrap tightly with plastic wrap, ensuring the wrap is touching the flesh.

4. Refrigeration Limits: While you can store unripe Bacon avocados in the fridge to delay ripening, they are more susceptible to "chilling injury" than other varieties if kept near the back of the fridge where it is coldest. Keep them in the produce crisper drawer to maintain a slightly more moderate temperature.

PRUNING

1. Structural Training (Years 1–3): The goal for a young Bacon tree is to force it to branch out horizontally rather than just vertically.

• Topping the Leader: Once the tree reaches your desired "shoulder height" (usually around 3–4 feet), clip the central vertical leader. This breaks apical dominance and forces the tree to push out lateral (side) branches.
• Scaffold Selection: Choose 3 to 4 strong side branches to be your "scaffold" limbs and remove any competing vertical shoots that try to take over as a new leader.

2. Height Management (The "Rule of 15"): In home orchards, it is common practice to keep Bacon trees at a maximum height of 12 to 15 feet.

• Heading Back: Every year, identify the tallest vertical shoots and cut them back to a side-growing branch. This keeps the fruit within reach of a standard picking pole or ladder.
• The Window Effect: If the tree becomes too tall, the lower branches often lose their leaves due to shading, leaving you with a "lollipop" tree. Keeping the top lowered ensures sunlight reaches the bottom of the canopy.

3. Maintenance Pruning (Annual)

• Skirt Raising: Prune the lowest branches so they are at least 2 feet off the ground. This prevents "Splash-up" (soil-borne pathogens reaching the leaves) and keeps the fruit from resting on the mulch.
• Thinning the Interior: Remove "twiggy" or crossing growth from the center of the tree. Improving air circulation is the best defense against fungal diseases like anthracnose.
• Dead Wood: Remove any dead, diseased, or damaged (DDD) wood as soon as you see it, regardless of the season.

4. Timing and Safety

• When to Prune: The ideal time is late winter or early spring, immediately after the fruit harvest but before the heavy spring bloom. Avoid pruning in mid-summer, as the sudden exposure to high heat can stress the tree.
• The "One-Third" Rule: Never remove more than 25-30% of the canopy in one year. Excessive pruning can cause the tree to go into a "vegetative shock" where it produces lots of leaves but zero fruit for the next season.

5. Tool Care: Always use sharp, sterilized bypass pruners or a pruning saw. Clean your tools with a 10% bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol between trees to prevent the spread of pathogens like Avocado Sunblotch Viroid or root rot.

PRUNING SUMMARY